ROFLOL! Thanks, Padre, I think.
Pardon my stupidity here, but what do all those numbers (13-13-13) mean, Blackbird?
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gardening question
- Thread starter abcgrad94
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ROFLOL! Thanks, Padre, I think.
Pardon my stupidity here, but what do all those numbers (13-13-13) mean, Blackbird?
I'm neither padredurand nor blackbird (nor is this any stupidity on your part, by any stretch), but (Why did I get kicked "off log" in under 10 minutes on the BB, and have to "log on" again so soon?? This is ridiculous!!!!)
Now where was I??
Oh yeah!
13-13-13 is the signature for the three most common, necessary elements to plant growth (and often elements that are either lacking or unavailable in an easily available form to the plants from the soil), in plant food, N, P, & K or Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.
They stand for the percentages of actual elemental nitrogen (expressed as N2), what called "phosphate" (actually P2O5) and "potash" (K2O).
Therefore 2 of the 50# bags (equaling 100#) of 'Triple 13' fertilizer would contain materials (usually granulated) that would give one 13# of N2, 13# of P2O5, and 13# of K2O.
In actual practice (here in Central KY at my friendly local fertilizer plant), the materials this would contain would likely consist of ammonium nitrate ('analysis' of 34-0-0), a material known as "DAP" (short for Di-Ammonium Phosphate - 'analysis' of 18-46-0) and one known as 'Muriate' of Potash (or M/P - 'analysis' of 0-0-60), and enough "filler" materials (usually coarsely ground agricultural limestone, at least in my area) to make up the weight. [If the fertilizer was labeled 13-13-13S, the S suffix means that the 'potash' source is "sulfate of potash" which is sometimes used for various crops (notably tobacco, in my area), in place of the 'muriate' of potash.]
That would commonly translate into roughly 23# of Ammonium Nitrate, 30# of 'DAP', and 22# of 'muriate' of potash, plus 25# of limestone 'filler', + a # or so, for each of the materials, per 100# of fertilizer. One can vary these quantities, with some different materials, and still arrive at a 13-13-13, BTW.
Or one can have this analysis (or about any other possible 'analysis') "custom blended" in the "tons" quantities I commonly use on the farm, at my friendly, local fertilizer plant. I would likely add some other materials to the mix (and eliminate the 'filler' entirely), depending on the crop to which I was applying the fertilizer, but you can get the basic gist of the process, from the above.
[SIGH!] 'Kicked off log', again! Meaning I have had to 'log-in' 2 times (plus copy and paste my response) just to post this reply!
Ed
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I'm neither padredurand nor blackbird (nor is this any stupidity on your part, by any stretch), but (Why did I get kicked "off log" in under 10 minutes on the BB, and have to "log on" again so soon?? This is ridiculous!!!!)
Now where was I??
Oh yeah!
13-13-13 is the signature for the three most common, necessary elements to plant growth (and often elements that are either lacking or unavailable in an easily available form to the plants from the soil), in plant food, N, P, & K or Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.
They stand for the percentages of actual elemental nitrogen (expressed as N2), what called "phosphate" (actually P2O5) and "potash" (K2O).
Therefore 2 of the 50# bags (equaling 100#) of 'Triple 13' fertilizer would contain materials (usually granulated) that would give one 13# of N2, 13# of P2O5, and 13# of K2O.
In actual practice (here in Central KY at my friendly local fertilizer plant), the materials this would contain would likely consist of ammonium nitrate ('analysis' of 34-0-0), a material known as "DAP" (short for Di-Ammonium Phosphate - 'analysis' of 18-46-0) and one known as 'Muriate' of Potash (or M/P - 'analysis' of 0-0-60), and enough "filler" materials (usually coarsely ground agricultural limestone, at least in my area) to make up the weight. [If the fertilizer was labeled 13-13-13S, the S suffix means that the 'potash' source is "sulfate of potash" which is sometimes used for various crops (notably tobacco, in my area), in place of the 'muriate' of potash.]
That would commonly translate into roughly 23# of Ammonium Nitrate, 30# of 'DAP', and 22# of 'muriate' of potash, plus 25# of limestone 'filler', + a # or so, for each of the materials, per 100# of fertilizer. One can vary these quantities, with some different materials, and still arrive at a 13-13-13, BTW.
Or one can have this analysis (or about any other possible 'analysis') "custom blended" in the "tons" quantities I commonly use on the farm, at my friendly, local fertilizer plant. I would likely add some other materials to the mix (and eliminate the 'filler' entirely), depending on the crop to which I was applying the fertilizer, but you can get the basic gist of the process, from the above.
[SIGH!] 'Kicked off log', again! Meaning I have had to 'log-in' 2 times (plus copy and paste my response) just to post this reply!
Ed
Took the words right out of my mouth, Ed!!!!!!!! Blackbird would have responded to the Triple Thirteen equation----word for word!!!!!!! Honest!!!!:laugh::laugh:
As far as you gettin' "the boot" off and having to log back on-----well----you just gotta have "connections" in the right places, I suppose!!!!:BangHead:
To put it in cajun terms--------the bag will contain 13 parts Amonia Nitrate----13 parts Phophras------and 13 parts Potash--------the rest of the bag is inert ingredients----JUNK!!!
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Well, I hate to disagree with a Cajun, but the 'filler' used around here is neither inert ingredients nor junk, but actually a very good material in that it is usually ground limestone, which around here equates to dolomite limestone, providing both Calcium and Magensium to the plants, both of which are necessary to plant growth, and which limestone also contributes to managing the soil acidity (soil pH) as well.
However, this is not a very cost-effective manner of applying a very good product, on any significant acreage, although it is fine and dandy for use on the garden or yard, where one might use only a couple or three bags total.
Ed
Actually, I believe you are attempting to make this somewhat harder than it actually is.
Generally, for most vegetables, a 1-1-1 ratio is fairly close to most overall plant needs. (I presume you are talking about a small garden, and nothing big such as a commercial garden.)
Your county agent can tell you specifically, and a reasonably knowledgeable garden center, nursery, or farm store person can usually give you the info you need as well.
Ed
Skip the science and stick with poo. Here's an easy test
1. Pick it up in your hand and take a big whiff of it. If it still smells like it came right out of the cow don't use it. You need another 2 months.
2. Give it the whiff test. If it don't smell like poo you can go on to the next step. Take a little taste. If it's tangy don't use it. You need another month.
3. Assuming that you have passed the whiff and taste test this last test will get you on your way. Take a big handful of it and rub it vigorously between your hands. Did it stick to you like bread dough? You picked off the wrong end of the pile. If it crumbles like peat moss you are good to go.:thumbsup:
Now ain't that easier than all that 13-13-13 stuff. Let me know how it works out for you, okay?2. Give it the whiff test. If it don't smell like poo you can go on to the next step. Take a little taste. If it's tangy don't use it. You need another month.
3. Assuming that you have passed the whiff and taste test this last test will get you on your way. Take a big handful of it and rub it vigorously between your hands. Did it stick to you like bread dough? You picked off the wrong end of the pile. If it crumbles like peat moss you are good to go.:thumbsup:
Padre is right, grad!!!! Cow manure is a "cure all" for lots of things!!!!!
Once---long time ago------on my uncle's dairy farm----I was there with a bad case of a Cold---stopped up nose---coughin' & sneezin'---your typical symptoms---------along with a severe case of chapped lips!!!
Says my uncle------"Go over to the dairy parlor and rub some cow manure on those chapped lips!!!"
Says blackbird-------"Will it cure chapped lips???????"
Says blackbird's uncle-----"No!!!! But it sure will keep ya from lickin' 'um!!!!!!!"
:laugh::laugh:
Says blackbird to EdSutton-------don't erase any of your chemcial equations from the blackboard-----blackbird is gonna copy your answers for the test comin' up today!!!!:type:
Three suggestions.
The first:
Don't mix fresh manure with the 'dry' fertilizer in a bag. It clumps it together way too much. :laugh: :laugh:
The second:
Don't mix Urea (46-0-0) and Ammonium Nitrate (34-0-0) together, please.
This mixture will draw any available moisture, from the atmosphere and effectively become 'soup' and impossible to do anything with, in a fertilizer mixture, although either can be used in the fertilizer by itself, as the source of Nitrogen.
The third:
The word is spelled "c-h-e-m-i-c-a-l" for the 'spielinng tesste' [sic].
Ed
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I think I like your uncle. I'd pay cash money to watch you rub some of that manure on your lips. Come to think of it, I'd pay cash money to watch ABCGrad do the taste test, too!
